Tour Ronde : SE ridge

Tour Ronde : SE ridge

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Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr - it

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: great

Rating

AD     II    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3365 m / 3792 m

height_diff_up: 600 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Aesthetic outing which gives an interesting alternative to the normal route.

Approach

From the Torino Hut

Cross the col des Flambeaux - NW, 3407m – then descend diagonally to the NW under the Aiguilles de Toules.
At the plateau around 3300, go obliquely to the SW to climb up the glacier leading to the Col d'Entrèves.

From the Aiguille du Midi

Descend the classic Vallée Blanche via the col Gros Rognon, pass under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and climb up to the S, bypassing a heavily crevassed area, to get to the col d'Entrèves.

Tour Ronde, E face and  SE ridge
Tour Ronde, E face and SE ridge

Route Col d'Entrèves, Col Freshfield and summit

Go up the snow slope (45°) on the French side and then climb the ridge. The pinnacles are always bypassed on the Italian side (S). The inclined slab before the first pinnacle can be climbed “à cheval” on its crest or bypassed by descending 15m and go back up a small gully, (mixed, nuts,) to the top of the slab and then passing onto the Italian side.
The ridge becomes easier and is followed past the Col Freshfield, to join the normal route to the summit.

Descent

By the E face (slopes at 45-50°). Abseil points in place in case it is too icy.

If the face is really to « dry », one can descend to the Col Freshfield and abseil down directly to the glacier. The first abseil point is a sling slightly on the French side, the second is on the right, the third is on the left and fourth directly in the line. A full 50m is needed to pass the begschrund.

remarks

  • In the sun from first thing. To enjoy the sunrise leave the hut an hour earlier, spectacular view towards Mont Blanc.
  • A mixed route, not too technically difficult. No. 11 of Rebuffat’s 100 best routes.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Slings, some nuts
  • In case of abseilling, bring spare slings etc.

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