Aiguille d'Orny : La Moquette (S Ridge)

Aiguille d'Orny : La Moquette (S Ridge)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge, pillar

quality: great

Rating

D-  
5b > 5aA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2830 m / 3150 m

height_diff_up: 320 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 30-45mins

From the Cabane d'Orny, follow the Trient hut path until about 2860m and go up to the foot of the Aiguille d'Orny by a boulder slope, faint track, (30-45min.) On the right, low down, there is a small red buttress topped by an overhang. Further up there is a second red buttress at the foot of the cliff, also topped by an overhang. Immediately to the left of this is a small gully and then a rock ridge with a larger gully to its left. This larger gully runs up underneath the main face below the summit tower. La Moquette climbs the rock ridge between these two gullies

Route

The start is marked by a square of carpet fixed to the rock.

L1 4c
L2 4b
L3 5b A delicate slab move followed higher up by a difficult move to gain a rib, (well bolted.)
L4 4b
L5 4c
L6 3 Easy ground along a ridge, possible to move together
From the top of P6, cross a gully and attack the SE face. (Possible to escape to the right.)
L7 4c To the right of the gully. Follow the bolts traversing rightwards. Steep on big holds.
L8 4b Go up leftwards then more direct to a ledge, (where it is possible to walk off to the right.)
L9 5a+

Descent

From the summit, an abseil of 25m, brings one back to the ledge at the start of the last pitch, which one can follow to the E. (left looking downwards.) From there follow a faint path through the boulders. There are several cairns indicating two options:
•Turn to the right and follow a series of steep gullies to end up about 50m to the E of the foot of the route. (trending to the right at a certain moment, following cairns.)
•Turn to the left (E) and find the top of a gully marked with a pair of cairns. This gully is clearly visible from the hut. Descend this steep and delicate gully, then the boulders until you reach the path leading to the hut.

remarks

  • The difficult sections are on good rock and well bolted.
  • The less difficult sections are often traverses on not such good rock, (less well bolted, nuts/friends useful.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 12 quickdraws. A few nuts/friends could be useful.
  • Boots to make the descent more pleasant. (Possible to leave with the sac at the top of the gully between P6 an P7.)

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