Les Courtes : Normal route and traverse

Les Courtes : Normal route and traverse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge, face

quality: great

Rating

AD   M3    III 

heights

elevation min/max : 2687 m / 3856 m

height_diff_up: 1300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Route

Ascent by the Normal route (the col de la Tour des Courtes and the WNW ridge) 4h

From the Couvercle hut, go onto the Talèfre glacier, pass to the S of the Jardin at at around 2850m. Go obliquely due N to the start of the snow slopes coming down from the Col des Droites, going around a rock band in the middle of the face on by the left.
At 3350m, make a rising traverse to the right up some couloirs and snow cones to reach the couloir that leads to the col de la Tour des Courtes (3720m - 3h15).
From the col, follow easily the WNW ridge, snow, exposed to the summit (45mn).

Traverse to the Col des Cristaux by the SE ridge 3h

Descend the crest of the SE ridge until the top of the NE face. You come to the foot of Aiguille Chenavier (3799m). Pass to the left of the summit and make a 30m abseil to reach the SE side. To avoid the abseil, it is possible to traverse to the right by some ledges on the Talèfre side and climb up several metres to pass through a « letter box » slot (3b).
Continue to descend the crest, then traverse to the right to the foot of the Aiguille Croulante (mixed). Reach an obvious col a little before the Aiguille Qui Remue (3724m). Bypass this on the Argentière side by a snow slope. Variant: climb up for 30m to regain the ridge at the foot of the Aiguille Qui Remue (3b). Follow the ridge, passing the shoulder of the Passage Amont (3647m), a little but obvious pinnacle, to the Col des Cristaux.

Descent

Taléfre Side 3h

From the col des Cristaux, descend snow/mixed on the Talèfre side, going gradually to the right, (some cairns.) You arrive at a couloir which comes down from the Aiguille Croulante. Descend on the true left bank and pass the bergschrund well to the left (1h15). The descent faces S, pay attention to the condition of the snow.
From the Talèfre glacier, go back to the hut, (1h15).

Argentière side by the NE Face of the Col des Cristaux

3 possibilities:
- Descend le couloir from the col des Cristaux (AD).
- From the Passage d'Amont, descend the shoulder (mixed) which forms the true left bank of the couloir (PD).
- Descend the broken rocks on the true right bank of the couloir des Cristaux.

Continue down the couloir, in line with some rocks to avoid the frequent stonefall. Cross the couloir to the true left side and pass the bergschrund with an abseil, (sling on a rock.) The descent by this way needs to be done early in the day as the snow quickly deteriorates and the couloir is steep, (40-45°).

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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