Aiguille Purtscheller : S ridge classical

Aiguille Purtscheller : S ridge classical


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: loop
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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5a > 4c

    II    P3  E3 


elevation min/max : 2702 m / 3478 m

height_diff: +776 m / -2147 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




R. Aubert, René Dittert, Francis Marulaz, 16 may 1943


A pleasant classical and popular route.


From the Albert 1er hut
Go to the Col Supérieur du Tour, then aim for the V gap by climbing up 150m to the N.
From the Cabane du Trient
From the hut traverse the Trient plateau and, before arriving at the Col Supérieur du Tour, turn to the NW in the direction of the V gap.


L1 5a From the V gap, climb the cracked wall of first pinnacle, which is about 20m high. After about 8m, go to the right to bypass the pinnacle by the W face passing through a rock slot. Come back onto the E face by a gully/chimney which leads to a gap between the first and second pinnacles. Climb onto the jammed boulder between the two pinnacles, (either by laybacking on the left or climbing on the right) and climb the crest of the ridge for several metres.
L2 4c 45m Traverse firstly on the Trient side by a little slab (4c) and then by a series of walls and gaps to reach a short, slanting corner.
L3 4a Bypass to the left (W face) the summit of the second pinnacle to reach the next gap below a big rock step, overhanging near the top. Climb back down on the Trient side to traverse a ledge for 15m. (4a down climbing).
L4 4c 45m Climb a chimney with large, yellow flakes, (one can firstly climb on the outside and then by classic chimneying, or chimneying from the start,) and then along the crest of the ridge. (Strenuous.)
L5 4c Pass behind a spike, traverse horizontally for 10m to reach a last gap, then climb a chimney for 20m, (rock questionable) to the summit.
(Alternatively, at the spike go up to the right to reach the top of the last pinnacle which one bypasses to the W and then down climbs to reach the last gap, 5a, delicate, 1 peg.)


In three abseils on the N side (equipped with 2 bolts, may need to change the slings) brings one not far from the start of the normal route of the Tour, at the Col Purtscheller, in or next to the bergschrund. (There are also abseils points on the NE side.)


  • Logical route, (except at the start. Make sure you take the crack furthest to the left.)
  • Rock climb with a glacier approach.
  • Possible to do the S ridge integrale, by staying on the crest of the ridge all the way, TD-, 5c obl.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


  • Friends (camalot 1-2-3)
  • Abseil rope 40m
  • slings


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