Aiguille de la Lex Blanche / Lée Blanche : NW face

Aiguille de la Lex Blanche / Lée Blanche : NW face

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

AD     III 
5.2
TD / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 2580 m / 3697 m

height_diff_up: 1120 m

height_diff_difficulties: 800 m

slope: 50°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 4 hours of climbing from the Conscrits hut.

From the Conscrits hut leave towards the NE traversing slightly uphill to reach the glacier at around 2800m.

Route

It is possible to pick out the best line from the hut. Make a rising traverse of the glacier towards the foot of the NW face of Aiguille de la Lex Blanche. Climb on the left from the spur descending from the summit (western ridge). Pass a constriction and reach the top of a secondary spur on the left half way up the face. Climb rightwards to the upper part as far as the summit via a slope which steepens, (the last 350 meters at 50°).

Descent

On Foot
Follow the narrow, snow ridge towards the Dôme de Neige (at the foot of the Aiguille des Glaciers), Then descend this ridge towards the Col des Glaciers (3063m). Overcome a section of rocky ridge, (about 50m, with a move of 3b). From the col descend easy angled slopes of the glacier de Tré la Tête.
On Ski
By the same route (without passing the Conscrits refuge again: descend the right bank of the Glacier de Tré la Tête). The start and the narrows are S5, then S4.

remarks

  • This route can be done from Tré la Tête hotel, but the second day is longer.
  • The difficulties are unrelenting on all the face with the most steep sections higher up and in the constiction (slopes to 50°).
  • Because of the orientation there is no need to start too early.
  • A very long descent, hard on the knees.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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