Pointes Lachenal : Goulotte Pellissier

Pointes Lachenal : Goulotte Pellissier

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: goulotte

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
5c > 5a

  4  M5+    II 

heights

elevation min/max : 3320 m / 3613 m

height_diff_up: 290 m

height_diff_difficulties: 220 m

slope: 85°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Two nice ice pitches followed by mixed and rock climbing. Not sustained.

Approach

From the Aiguille du Midi or the Cosmiques hut, go towards the Col du Midi. A little before the col, go to the ENE to pass between the Gros Rognon and the Pointes Lachenal. Go to the foot of the Pointes Lachenal. One can also take a higher line along the foot of the cliff if the crevasses allow.

Goulotte Pellissier
Goulotte Pellissier

The route goes up to the right of the main spur of the Pointes Lachenal, to the left of some slabs with cracks, (Contamine route).

Route

P0 Pass the bergschrund, go up the snow slope (55-60°) until the foot of the gully. In dry conditions there is a section of mixed for about 20m before the start of the gully (5m en M4). Belay on ice screws or a rock spike amongst the rocks on the left.
P1 40m Nice ice pitch at 70° (maybe some easy mixed). In-situ belay on a block in the middle of the gully.
P2 50m The gully splits into two. Climb the narrow, left branch, initially ice at 75° then mostly mixed (M4+). In-situ belay on a block slightly to the right of centre of the gully.
P3 50m Climb up ice/mixed for 15m as it steepens (60° to 85°, M4+), then 35m of snow at 55°. In dry conditions there might be a section of mixed just before the belay (5m at M5). In-situ belay on a rock spike in a niche to the left.
P4 45m Crux pitch. Traverse slightly to the right and go up the gully for 20m of mixed (M5) until a slightly overhanging wall. From here climb mainly on rock to reach a snowy col and the junction with "Hit Machine", (peg at the start, 5m at 5c or M6 of dry-tooling, then 10m of 5a followed by 15m at M4) . In-situ belay on a block.
P4' 45m From the intermediate belay on pitch 4 (see Remarks below) you can also follow a system of cracks to the left leading to the snowy col. (5a/b).

From the snowy col it is possible to go to the summit of the Pointes Lachenal by snow slopes (45°) and easy mixed climbing.

Descent

Either abseil back down the route or via the summit and the normal route.

remarks

There are two extra, in-situ belays on the route. The first, not very useful, is to the left of the start of the snow slope in pitch 3. The second is just before the rock climbing section on pitch 4, useful for belaying the leader on the crux.
Pitch 4 can be avoided by climbing the slightly overhanging wall just above the belay, (good holds, easier than it looks, 20m at 5a) to reach a little col 15m lower than the original exit.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Friends, nuts and perhaps some pegs.
4 ice screws, preferably short ones.

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