Cascades de glace : Montriond : Nant de la Lapiaz - « la Classique »

Cascades de glace : Montriond : Nant de la Lapiaz - « la Classique »

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 40 - Le Léman
  • Swisstopo - 271 - Chablais
  • IGN - 3528ET - Morzine - Massif du Chablais - Les Portes du Soleil

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: fine

Rating

D+   4+    I    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1190 m / 1450 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 260 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

Start from the "Bout du Lac" (small parking). You reach the foot of the icefall in 30 min by following the track which goes S through the forest, then go W where it crosses a stream, which you follow to the foot of the route. (Red and white markings on the trees. You leave the path between the marks "26" and "27").

Route

P1 4+ 40m Climb the ice wall, mostly on the left, steep and sustained at 85° then 80°. The centre of the icefall is steeper and more sustained. Belay on bolts and a chain on the left.
P2 snow/ice not very steep, 55m (linking pitch,) short steps of ice. Bolt belay on the right.
P3 4 50/60m Long and beautiful pitch on a broad ice wall. Possible to vary the line between 3+ and 4, (some vertical sections of 4-5m). Bolt belay on the left.
P4 70-80° 50 m Easier climbing with some short, steeper steps. Exit onto level snow. Bolt belay at the back on the left, (and also on the right.)
P5 Less steep 40 m A few short steps. Bolt belay at the base of a tree on the right.

Descent

5 abseils. all abseil point equipped with 10mm bolts, a sling and metal ring. Just works with 2×50 m ropes for the penultimate abseil. .
It is also possible to walk off by going upwards and making a long detour.

This route is used as a reference route for the ice grade. Do not modify the grade for this route. If you think it is wrong, please contact the site moderator : topo-fr@camptocamp.org.

remarks

Faces directly N. Visible from the parking, very impressive. A classic.
The first step is steep and long at 50m. The remaining pitches can normally be made to go at 3+, but still sustained and mostly 50m.
Some of the belays are placed fairly high and can be difficult to reach depending on the snow level, (and the height of the climber.)
Possible with 2×50 m ropes, better with 2×60 m ropes!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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