Aiguille d'Argentière : Y gully

Aiguille d'Argentière : Y gully

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: corridor

quality: medium

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Rating

AD     III 
5.2 / E3
TD / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 2770 m / 3901 m

height_diff_up: 1130 m

route_length: 6.034 km

height_diff_difficulties: 450 m

slope: 50°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the Argentière hut, climb toward the ‘col du Tour Noir’ and locate the start of the ‘Y’ gully.

Aiguille d'Argentière, Y gully
Aiguille d'Argentière, Y gully

Route

Climb towards the base of the gully and over the bergschrund, section at 55° if the snow conditions are right, if not climb in two mixed pitches (belays avaliable). Allow 2h from the hut.

Climb the gully, exiting either by the right-hand branch (often snow) or the left-hand branch (often ice).

Descent

Mountaineering : By the normal route of the ‘glacier du Milieu’. Slope between 40 and 45° for 300 m.
Skis : by the route up, or by traversing to descend the Glacier du Milieu.

remarks

  • Right-hand branch: 450m at 45°, the first part is pretty tight.
  • The sun reaches the right-hand branch later than the left-hand branch.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Some ice-screws depending on the prevailing conditions.
  • Abseiling is sometimes necessary to cross the bergschrund.

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