Pyramide du Tacul : E ridge

Pyramide du Tacul : E ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge

quality: fine

Rating

D-  
5a > 4b

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 3371 m / 3468 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 3371 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

A good route, sustained at the grade. Ideal for gaining confidence in placing protection etc.

Approach

From the Torino hut, traverse NW down onto the Geant glacier and then contour under the Pte Adophe Rey to reach the Pyramide du Tacul, (huge crevasses.) Start just left of the lowest point.
It should also be possible to approach from the Aiquille du Midi and back in a day if one moves quickly.

Route

Get on the rock via a tricky bergschrund. Go up for one or two pitches with a traverse to the right to reach the crest of the ridge, (3c.) Follow the E ridge or its left side, (4c,) for seven pitches. Superb view from the summit.

Descent

Abseil down the ascent route.
If there are other parties on the route, there is an option to abseil down the S face, .

remarks

  • The route gets the sun early. Nonetheless, it can be cold first thing in the morning.
  • The ridge is neither very steep nor the rock too compact. Not much in-situ gear.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

6 Quickdraws, friends, nuts, slings, helmet, 2×50 m rope. Glacier material.

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