Première pointe des Nantillons : Bienvenue au Georges V

Première pointe des Nantillons : Bienvenue au Georges V

{{detailsCtrl.documentService.document.associations.images[0].locales[0].title}}

Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang es - fr

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: fine

Rating

TD+  
6a+ > 5c

    II  X1    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2523 m / 2921 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

difficulties_height: 2570 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 50 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the hut, traverse the Envers de Blatiere glacier to the foot of the route, which is on the right side of the spur coming down from the Pointe.

Route

L1 6a+ Gain a first ledge by going to the left or directly up a nice crack at 5c+. From the ledge, go straight up the crack, delicate to start, bolt.
L2 5c Thin crack, sloping first to the right then to the left, belay on a ledge on the left.
L3 6a Short leftwards traverse then more easily straight up to a short, steep section, with cracks, fairly difficult.
L4 6a+ Gain a thin crack in the middle of a slab/pillar, superb.
L5 5b Take a chimney on the left.
L6 6a Short, delicate passage to the left then an easy crack. Belay at the top to the right.
L7 6a Climb a large flake, traverse to the right then a little rock fang to the right to climb straight up on compact rock with thin flakes, superb.
L8 5c+ A slab to the right then straight up, then slightly to the left.
L9 6a Climb up leftwards to gain a little corner, steepish but easy.
L10 6a Gain a little, slabby spur to the right, climb it, (with a bold section) to a gap, belay 5m above.
L11 5c Climb a little shoulder (bolts) then go slightly to the left.
L12 5c Get into the corner on the right, (airy,) escaping on the left by a chimney, up a ledge until a short, wide crack which leads to a last slab in the line of the spur.

The route is not too difficult to follow. (See also the description in the new guidebook.)

Descent

Abseil down the route, taking care not to snag the rope on the flakes in the middle section.

remarks

Warm in the morning, loses the sun in the afternoon.
A sustained route, the first crack especially difficult if it is still cold.
The cracks allow excellent protection with nuts and friends.
A nice line next to the spur.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

A set of friends (upto size 2), a set of nuts, 10 quickdraws, spare karabiners and a rope suitable for abseilling.

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

{{::post['created_at'] | amUtc | amLocal | amTimeAgo}}
  • eu
  • it
  • ca
  • de