Miroir d'Argentine : Voie Originale de l'Y

Miroir d'Argentine : Voie Originale de l'Y

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 272 - St-Maurice
  • Swisstopo - 1285 - Les Diablerets

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

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Rating

D-  
5c+ > 5aA0

    II    P1+  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1469 m / 2325 m

height_diff: +850 m / -892 m

height_diff_difficulties: 380 m

difficulties_height: 1920 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Delisle, Rathgeb, Moreillon, 1926.

description

Approach

From the Solalex parking, cross the torrent by a footbridge and ascend a steep path to the foot of the route. A bolt and a plaque with the route’s name mark the start.

Route

L1 3a Corner crack sloping to the left. No bolts. Belay high up.
L2 5a Start leftwards, then right to a ledge.
L3 2 From the belay, follow the rising ledge to the right for about 50m and the belay slightly hidden on the left, before the Bal des Mutants belay and several metres above, (climbing in some boulders.)
L4 5c+ Or 4a with 2 aid points. A steep start on large but polished holds followed by a thin slab. Then more easily up a rising traverse to the left.
L5 5a+ A nice, sustained pitch
L6 3c With a little steep corner with flakes, not obvious
L7 3c
L8 3b
L9 3c Shares the belay with Bal des Mutants
L10 4 Follow the large crack which traverses the « Miroir », rising to the right
L11 4a
L12 4a
L13 4a The end of this pitch is shared with the « Directe »
L14 4a Traverse to the left under the final rock barrier to exit to the gap by a short, easy wall.

Descent

Traverse to the left and either by a stony gully or a pitch of 5c/6a, gain the summit of the Haute Corde. From the summit of the Haute Corde, follow the East ridge then a path down grassy slopes to Anzeindaz then Solalex. You can avoid the summit of the Haute Corde by not going up the gully but by staying on a small but well marked path, occasionally exposed, which leads to the col de la Poreyrette. From there either descend either as above or directly to Solalex by the Poreyrette ravine: shorter but more tedious, especially after rain.

remarks

A cold cliff not normally practical before mid June, before which there can be snow on the summit. Sun in the afternoon in July to mid September.
The belays are in place, usually a large cemented ring, but sometimes with two bolts.
The bolts seem to be in good condition. Fairly well spaced on the easier sections.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

A few nuts, friends and slings might be useful to supplement the bolts.
8 quickdraws, 50 m rope , helmet. With 12 quickdraws you can do two pitches in one in the upper stages.

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