Mont Blanc du Tacul : N face (normal route)

Mont Blanc du Tacul : N face (normal route)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

PD     III  X3    P4 
3.3 / E2
AD+ / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 3532 m / 4248 m

height_diff: +800 m / -965 m

height_diff_difficulties: 550 m

difficulties_height: 3700 m

slope: 35° (2 passages à 40/45°)

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

Mont Blanc du Tacul, N Face
Mont Blanc du Tacul, N Face

From the Aiguille du Midi, descend the NE ridge and traverse the Col du Midi plateau.

Route

Climb the N face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul which is “defended” by séracs. Bypass some large crevasses and several bergschrunds to reach the shoulder. Go up from here towards the summit, which is reached after climbing some easy rocks.

Descent

By the same way.

remarks

  • 700m from the Col du Midi to the summit and another 300m to climb back up to the Aiguille du Midi (tiring if not acclimatized). Possible to return by the Cosmiques Ridge.
  • A high altitude route prone to wind slab avalanches and/or serac falls. Not to be underestimated.
  • Usually well tracked to the shoulder as this is becoming the most popular route for Mont Blanc.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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