Miroir d'Argentine : Voie Directe

Miroir d'Argentine : Voie Directe

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 272 - St-Maurice
  • Swisstopo - 1285 - Les Diablerets

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

D  
5a > 5a

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1462 m / 2325 m

height_diff_up: 800 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

orientations

E W S N

description

A magnificent, huge limestone slab. You can see why it’s called the mirror.
The route is fairly well equipped but nuts and friends are useful as the bolts are well spaced, (more so than on the other Miroir routes.)

Approach

From the Solalex parking, cross the torrent by a footbridge and ascend a steep path to the foot of the route.
The climb starts at an obvious large corner in the centre of the cliff, the left side having grey rock, the right side reddish rock. The broken terrain before the start is fairly exposed. There is a plaque with the route’s name at the start.

Route

L1 5a
L2 4a Stay in the corner, ignore the bolts seen to the left
L3 5a letter box, polished
L4 4a
L5 5a
L6 4a
L7 4a
L8 4a
L9 4b
L10 5a
L11 5a
L12 5a
L13 4a
L14 3a
L15 4c

From the top of the route, traverse E to gain, via a stony gully, the summit of the Haute Corde (2350m). See also http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53904/en/miroir-d-argentine-voie-originale-de-l-y

Descent

From the summit of the Haute Corde, follow the East ridge then a path down grassy slopes to Anzeindaz then Solalex.

remarks

A cold cliff not normally practical before mid June, before which there can be snow on the summit. Sun in the afternoon in July to mid September

gear

Large slings useful in the corner (numerous flakes and chockstones).

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