Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S : E face and Traverse

Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S : E face and Traverse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

AD  
6a > 4c

  A0    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2383 m / 2840 m

height_diff_up: 650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

orientations

E W S N

description

A varied and classic route, with the typical Aiguilles Rouges view across to the Massif.

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the path towards the Col des Crochues. A little before the col, take a faint path to the right which goes to the foot of the E face. Go along the face until the start of the route.

Crochues, E face and Lux route
Crochues, E face and Lux route

Route

L1 Traverse for 30m (2b, 1 peg). Belay on a rock spike at the foot of a deep chimney.
L2 Climb the chimney and exit to the right (3b, 1 peg) to a little stony terrace. Belay on two pegs.
L3 Climb a magnificent, slanting corner on the left, (4b, one abandoned friend) and follow a nice crack, easy to protect, to a large rock spike
L4 6a or 4c/A0. The difficulties are only in the first 5m. Start at an abandoned friend, then an old peg above the hard part, to the crest of the ridge. Belay on a rock spike and a bolt.

It is possible to descend the ridge from here to the Col des Crochues, There is a chimney to down climb at 3, (or abseil.)
Traverse the summits of the Crochues by the crest of the ridge, sometimes on the N side until the highest point, 2840m.

Descent

Descend easily towards the Lac Blanc and take the path back either to the Index chairlift or the Flégère cable car.

remarks

  • Nice, short route suitable for beginners.
  • Following a rock landslide in 2005, the start of the 4th pitch is now harder. This short steep wall is much more technical than the rest of the route.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Small set of nuts/friends + 5 quickdraws, slings, helmet.

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