Chapelle de la Glière : S-ridge

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 2383 m / 2663 m

height_diff_up: 450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

Rating

Rating

D-  
5a > 4c

    II    P3 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift go the direction of the col de la Gliere. Traverse by a little path underneath the Index to a niche and descend a steep gully onto a scree slope. Go up another gully, (steep, some scrambling) in the second scree slope until the start of the climb near a boulder at the foot of a corner.

Route

The route is shown on the photo below, also the general situation another photo below.
In two pitches climb the initial polished corner (4c) then follow the ridge (3) until the foot of a second corner which is climbed in two pitches of 4c. Walk along the ridge to another buttress and climb it in a short pitch of 4b until the infamous "passage du Rasoir" (knife-edge). Climb it on the left side (3c), then traverse right to gain a good terrace.
Walk up to the next corner and climb at the back of it (4b) then follow a chamois track which goes up some little gullies to a niche a the foot of the « Chapelle », (Chapel)
Gain the summit of the Chapelle by the East face (4c, 1peg), then descend slightly to the foot of the "Clocher". (Bell tower) Climb the Clocher by a short pitch mostly to the right (4c, 1 peg). Climbing it directly by the left-hand ridge is steeper, (5c/6a).

Descent

Abseil 20m to the foot of the Clocher then follow a series of faint paths to the col de l’Index. Descend the gully, which leads to a 27m abseil, (just possible with a 50m rope) or down climb at grade 3.

remarks

  • The starting corner is very enclosed and cold first thing in the morning
  • A nice ridge climb with the difficulties spread out all along the route.
  • Consider bivving near the Index station so to be ahead of the crowds in the morning.

gear

Some nuts, slings and 7 quickdraws
Crampons and an ice axe might be useful if there is still snow in the gully below the start (45º) and on the descent ledges.

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

  • eu
  • it
  • de
  • ca
  • es