Tour des Crochues : Voie Escande - De Galbert

Tour des Crochues : Voie Escande - De Galbert

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

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Rating

D-  
5b > 5a

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2589 m

height_diff: +200 m / -839 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 45mins

From the top station of the Index chairlift, follow the descending Lac Blanc path until it traverses the lower part of the Combe des Crochues. Take the faint path (cairns) on the left that leads to the foot of the Tour des Crochues. The start is at an obvious terrace 2m to the left of a large, very steep gully. (Wooden sticks.)
Start up an open corner (peg visible at 6m).

Route

L1 5a Climb the open corner towards the clearly visible deep corner/chimney. Go up this, passing the unsatisfactory belay at its foot, to reach a good terrace. (Stainless steel bolt and a peg for belaying.)
L2 5a Traverse rightwards several metres then climb a steep wall (bolt) to a peg belay.
L3 5b Climb up veering slightly leftwards and over a small overhang. Peg belay (Do not follow the stainless steel bolts on the right.) Possible to do pitches 2 and 3 in one (50m).
L4 4c By a slab move to the right, (old bolt), gain a series of small, open corners, taken on the left, (crossing the route with the s/s bolts.) A leftward slanting ramp. leads to a belay on good bolts with a chain, shared with « Violons Tziganes" and "Seul en Si". (Optional belay at the foot of the ramp.)
L5 5a Pass through the gap 5m above the belay and to the right, climb a block and then upward more easily tending slightly to the right. Belay on pegs (45m).
L6 4a Continue trending to the right to the shoulder. Belay on a rock spike.

The pitches are about 40-45m. Protection is mainly in-situ pegs.

Descent

From the summit follow the south ridge and climb down a steep but easy gully, (cairn at the top of the gully,) to arrive at the start of the route. Keep to the left, looking down, to avoid a large, steep boulder in the middle of the gully.

remarks

• A classic route, half way between trad and bolted climbing.
• In the shade in the morning. Often in condition early in the season because of its SW orientation.
• Interesting exercise in route finding and placing protection, in particular, in the crack on the third pitch to protect the overhang moves.
• The rock on the route is OK.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Some friends and/or nuts, 8-10 quickdraws, preferably a double rope and a helmet.

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