Breithorn W : Normal route from Klein Matterhorn

Breithorn W : Normal route from Klein Matterhorn

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 284 - Mischabel
  • Swisstopo - 1348 - Zermatt
  • Escursionista - ESC07 - Valtournenche - Monte Cervino
  • Escursionista - ESC08 - Monte Rosa - Alte valli d'Ayas e del Lys

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

F     II 
2.1 / E1
PD- / S3

heights

elevation min/max : 3795 m / 4164 m

height_diff_up: 370 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

route_history

First ascent: 13.08.1813, Henry Maynard with guides Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean-Baptiste and Jean-Jacques Erin, Jean Gras.

description

Has to be one of the easiest 4000m peaks. Good for acclimatization.

Approach.

Take the lift system to the Kleine Matterhorn station

Route 1h30

From the station, go to point 3795m and traverse the Breithorn plateau (about 3800m) curving around ENE to the foot of the S face. Cross the bergschrund and go up from right to left to reach the W ridge, which you follow to the summit,(4164m)
(From the Testa Grigia, count on 2h30)

Descent

Several options: e.g.
1. By the ascent route
2. By traversing the summit: descend the exposed E ridge to the col 4135m between the W and central summits
From the col, make a return trip to the central and E summits (4159m) by a corniced ridge. A good 30mins for the return trip.
Once back at the col, go to the Breithorn plateau by the S face to rejoin the ascent route.

remarks

A sudden change in the weather can cause route finding problems on the plateau.
Possible to start on foot from Zermatt.
A good first 4000m peak, though the ski pistes detract from the mountain feel.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Ski and snowboard touring, snowshoeing
Alpine snow, ice and mixed climbing from F to PD+
Crevasse rescue gear
External resources

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