Pointe Percée : Arête du Doigt

Pointe Percée : Arête du Doigt

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: fine

Rating

D  
5c > 5aA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1700 m / 2752 m

height_diff_up: 1150 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 2520 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

height_diff_access: 820 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Arête du doigt
Arête du doigt

Approach

From the Col des Annes, take the path to the Gramusset Hut, 1.5hrs
From the hut follow the normal path towards the Pointe Percée then at the foot of the large cwm, cross the limestone slabs to the left, (cairn on skyline) to a little shoulder. Overcome this to reach the screes below the N face, (several scrambling sections). Go along the foot of the face on a faint path to reach the foot of the ridge, just to the right of its crest. There is a cairn and a bolt at 4m. 1 hr from the hut.

Route

Route finding is easy as it is nearly always possible to see the next bolt and each belay has two bolts.
P1 4a Take the easiest line, moving right and left, keeping well to the right of the crest of the ridge.
P2 3c Continue for another rope length well to the right of the crest.
P3 3c A short pitch to avoid rope drag. Go up diagonally leftwards to belay on the crest of the ridge.
P4 4a Steeper slab then easy ground to the foot of the "Doigt". At this point it is possible to avoid the Doigt by traversing around to the left on easy ledges.

P5 4b Climb the corner on the right then up a chimney above a hole through the ridge, (ignore the bolts on another route to the right,) and climb a short wall to the top of the "Doigt". (Careful, some freshly broken rock on the summit.)
P6 A 20m abseil leads to a good ledge, (bolt hanger missing). One can reach here directly from the top of pitch 4, missing out the Doigt. Traverse easily for about 50m to the foot of the next steep section of the ridge.
P7 4b Climb the rock step by the crest and continue along the crest. Belay above the famous hole of the Pointe Percée.
P8 4b Continue along the narrow crest. Belay at a terrace.
P9 3c Continue along the crest by a thin flake of rock, ("Rasoir") then a little needle which can be traversed before its summit to the right to a gap at the foot of the final buttress.

At this point there are several options, and you can choose between the best line, the best climbing and the easiest.

Best Line, (keeping to the ridge)
P10 5c Climb the steep buttress using the cracks then a chimney which you exit on the right.
P11 5b Go up by some slabs a little to the right of the crest for one pitch.
From here 2 possibilities:
P12 4b Traverse on some ledges on the N side to reach the summit ridge by some gully/corners.
P12' 6c(A0) Go directly up the crest and overcome a rock step of 4m (6c or A0) then finish up the summit ridge.

Best Climbing, (finishing up the last three pitches of "Gouter a Gramusset"
Scramble down to the right to reach a traverse line which crosses the entire N face, awkward (3a) for the first 70m, some bolts and then easier for another 50m to the foot of the Guttinger chimney. A bolt at 2m with further bolts visible above.
P1 5b 45m Climb up the chimney for 4m then move right onto a ramp to climb a steep wall on a crest of a spur. A short, steep crack above leads to slab and a belay at the top of a small needle.
P2 5b 45m Descend from the back of the needle into the gap (3b) and climb rightwards up the steep wall behind on big jugs, impressive. (Ignore the line of older bolts on the left, recognisable by their rusty bolt heads.) Continue up the slabs above to easy ground which is followed to the foot of the final slabs just left of a chimney line.
P3 5b 45m After a steep start climb the slab above, trending leftwards, (again ignore the old bolts this time on the right,) and then up the left edge of the slab to arrive about 25m from the summit cross.

The easiest, (escape route)
From the foot of the Gruttinger Chimney , described above, continue along the traverse line to gain the normal route from the Gramusset Hut.

Descent 1.5h

From the summit follow the normal route, red markings, initially down the ridge. There are then two options. Either go down a gully going to the left to reach the path/route of the Cheminées de Sallanches, then the Col des Verts and finally the Gramusset Hut, or follow the orange/red markings to the right which takes you more directly back to the hut.
Careful with stonefall from other parties.

remarks

  • Straight forward descent, but take care especially in the wet.
  • Risk of snow patches early in the season.
  • The route is well bolted.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

50m rope, 8 quickdraws, (nuts/friends optional)

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