Lagginhorn : WSW Ridge (Normal Route)

Lagginhorn : WSW Ridge (Normal Route)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 274 - Visp
  • Swisstopo - 1309 - Simplon

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

PD  
2
    II    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3100 m / 4010 m

height_diff_up: 1250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 500 m

difficulties_height: 3450 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

E.L. Ames et 3 anglais, avec les guides Johann Joseph Imseng, Franz Andenmatten et 3 autres guides de Saas, le 26 août 1856.

description

Approach

From Saas Grund go up to the Weissmies hut: a pleasant path which allows for a quick gain in altitude.

Route

From the hut take the path above the hut to reach a level 4x4 track. Follow this to the until near a stream. Leave the track for a path on the right which crosses a little valley, (cairns,) to reach a path on the left which goes up the moraine leading to the foot of the Lagginhorn glacier, in line with the WSW ridge of the Lagginhorn.

From Hohsaas hut (3140m,) descend the track which passes under the telecabins and then the ski piste for about 50m. Contour until the S foot of the WSW ridge of the Lagginhorn. Go up the slabs equipped with cables and steps, following the cairns to reach the path from the Weissmies hut on the crest of the moraine at about 3150m.

Once on the Lagginhorn glacier, go diagonally to the left (NNE) towards the N glacier bowl then across a boulder field, (might be snow covered.) From here, gain the WSW ridge at about 3450m (cairns and red marks). Follw the crest on its S side, (some steps of II, including an easy angled, cracked slab,) to reach where the ridge broadens at about 3650m. Go up a series of boulder fields and snow slopes to the summit.

Variant : WSW Ridge intégrale
This route avoids going on a glacier.
From the Weissmies hut, follow the normal route to a flat area,(shortly after a cairn on the normal route,) and ford the torrent. Just after the torrent an obvious path goes up the moraine towards the Fletschorn. At about 2950 m, go upwards to the right and by climbing over the large boulders, always going diagonally rightwards, you soon reach a faint path with cairns. Follow this until it rejoins the normal route above the glacier, at about 3400m.

Descent

By the same route.
It is also possible to follow the WSW ridge until it joins the path going towards the Fletschhorn.

remarks

The glacial section is very short with few crevasses. You are at altitude nonetheless.
The rocks can be verglaced.
50m to climb back up to the Hohsaas telecabin, or you can go down to the mid station (Kreuzboden) at 2380m.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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