Mont Blanc : Traverse of the 3 "Monts"

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Information

General

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Download track as

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 3532 m / 4810 m

height_diff: +1660 m / -1660 m

route_length: 6.793 km

height_diff_difficulties: 1660 m

slope: 50°

Rating

Rating

PD+     III    P4 
4.2 / E2
D / S4

gear

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

Licence

description


Rivalling in popularity with the Gouter route, because a lot of people are put off by the Grand Couloir. However, it is not without objective dangers, e.g. serac collapse and windslab.

Approach

From the Aig du Midi cable car station, go down the E ridge and cross the snow bowl under the S face of the Aig du Midi to the Cosmiques hut.

Mont Blanc by the 3 Monts traverse from the Aiguille du Midi
Mont Blanc by the 3 Monts traverse from the Aiguille du Midi

Route

Follow the Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route (N face) to the shoulder at 4075m. Traverse to get to the Col Maudit.
Go up the Mont Maudit slopes to just right of the summit, the Col du Mont Maudit 4345m. The section below the col can be either snow or ice (50m at 50°, belay with slings on the rocks in the middle of the slope.)
Contour to reach the Col de la Brenva 4305m.
Climb the "Mur de la Côte" and then the easier angled summit slopes to the top, 4807m.

Descent

• By the same route;
• By the Bosses ridge, the Gouter hut and the train from Nid d’Aigle;
• Early in the season, by the Grands Mulets (serac fall danger, plus open crevasses later in the season.)

remarks

• Long route at high altitude with a considerable height gain.
• Need to be well acclimatized to avoid altitude sickness.

gear

50m rope. Perhaps 2 ice axes for the leader if the section before the Col du Maudit is ice.

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