Les Droites : Ginat

Information

General

General

activities
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Location

Location

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 2771 m / 4001 m

height_diff_up: 1229 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1000 m

slope: 85°

Rating

Rating

TD+   M4+    V 

gear

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description

209577

Ascent:
First ascent: J.Ginat, G.Modica, JP. Simond and JM. Troussier on 24 July 1978

The Ginat is an entirely ice route which tops out directly at the notch of Droites, it is considered as "the classic north face" because it is less mixed than the historic Davaille.

Day 1 -Access to Argentière refuge: From Grands Montet summit (3233 m) descend on the Glacier des Rognons and descend the Rognons moraine (2754 m) towards the summit by taking the rocky Rognon to the 3000m via the right or left depending on the snow cover. Take the slope towards the right, to the south-east and you reach the glacier at an altitude of 2580m. Go back up glacier on its left bank, which is less crevassed, to an altitude 2650m where you traverse diagonally towards the right bank and the refuge, perched at the foot of the moraine under Aiguille d'Argentière. 1H30 from Grands Montets (be careful of glacial formations). Access in 3h30 from the Lognan intermediate station, difficult in summer, follow the track (summer is the same as winter) until the altitude 2338m, then skirt the glacier via its left bank. Traverse the moraine of the Rognons using the ladders then a trail to reach point 2580m on the level part of the glacier. Access is easier with snow in winter, skirt the moraine of the Rognons via the glacier. Access in 5h00 from Argentière by going up the Pierre à Ric track.

Day 2: From Argentière refuge take foot and traverse towards the north face Droites (1h00 to 1h30).

Cross the bergschrund on the right of the face via a small obvious ice gully (15m at 75°). Then go up the ice slope pulling slightly to the left by aiming at a small rocky spur descending plumb with the summit notch. The slope becomes slightly less steep progressively as you climb (65° then 55/60°). Avoid the rocky spur referred to above on the left and go up to the summit of the ice slope. From the bergschrund 1h30 to 4h00. Three routes start from this point: On the left Axt-Gross, in the centre the Ginat and on the right Jackson. First go up an ice gully pulling slightly to the left then straight (75/80°). The following pitch traverse to the right to cross ice covered slabs. Take the thin arm of ice at the extreme right of the field of ice (80° max, often mixed). You then emerge on a snow or ice slope that is climbed to the right, then go up vertically in the direction of a steep face (3 pitches, 60/65°). Follow the thin ice gully at the bottom of a dihedral towards the left (85°) to reach the last steep wall via an ice slope (2 pitches). Make belays to the foot of the wall on the left, small promontory. Go up the wall (85/90°, 15m, avoidable on the left) and emerge in the summit corridor. Follow the corridor for 100 m (50°) until the notch of the Droites. From the beginning of the ice gullies 5h00 to 10h00.

Bibliography: - Guides Vallot tome 2. By F.Labande - Neige, glace et mixte… By F.Damilano and G.Perroux

Descent:
From the notch, take the southern slope descent. The beginning is very steep (rappel), then the descent can be done either on foot or rappelling on the right. Check the quality of the pitons and slings. It should be noted that J.Ginat disappeared while roping down at the time of the first climb of the route which bears his name. The bergschrund can be crossed by rappelling (piton and maillon on left bank). Take foot on the glacier by pulling southwest towards Couvercle refuge. 2h30 to 5h00 from the notch to the refuge.

remarks

Very austere and cold face, equipment and above all protection are indispensable.

The first half of the face is entirely ice, in-situ equipment is almost non-existent for the second half of the climb. Any turning back must be kit out and the face is 1000 m high.

The environment of this face is exceptional but it also has a price, its run out, descent are more problematic than the short ascent.

Access:
Chamonix > Argentière. Park at the Grands Montets tram parking lot. Take the tram as far as the summit of Grands Montets. Tel: 04.50.54.00.71 For the descent, get information on the train schedules from Montenvers. Tel: 04 50 53 12 54

Accommodation:
Given the very early morning start, a night at the Argentière refuge (2771m) is preferable. Tel: 04.50.53.16.92 If you do not use approach skis, a night at Couvercle refuge (2687 m) is almost inevitable. Tel: 04 50 53 16 94

gear

Classic ice gully equipment + selection of ice screws, nuts, friends and pitons. Cords or slings for rappelling the south face. Approach skis make it possible to considerably reduce the time for descending to Chamonix. Snow safety kit: Beeper, shovel and probe.

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