Aiguille de Bionnassay : NW face

Aiguille de Bionnassay : NW face

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

5.2 / E3
TD / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 1400 m / 4052 m

height_diff: +2652 m / -2652 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1000 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

1000m face between 3000 and 4000m: best to be acclimatized! The face has a lot of crevasses, with seracs everywhere; not a place to linger. Feels exposed near the top.

Aiguille de Bionnassay face NW
Aiguille de Bionnassay face NW

Approach

From the Nid d'Aigle go S up the "désert de Pierre Ronde" until about 2950m, then traverse the Bionnassay glacier.

Route

Climb the 1000m of the NW face, on the true left side, (right looking upwards,) weaving your way between the numerous crevasses and a large bergschrund at about 3650m.

Descent

On ski: by the same route, taking a good note of the line on the way up.
On foot: Either go back to the Durier hut or continue to the Dome de Gouter and down the Mont Blanc normal route by the Gouter hut, (see S ridge and Traverse of the Bionnassay)

remarks

  • Possible to start from the Tete Rousse hut which shortens the day.
  • The sun arrives on the face late, even in simmer. For skiers, in particular, the timing depends upon snow conditions.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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