Aiguille des Grands Montets : Pas de Chèvre

Aiguille des Grands Montets : Pas de Chèvre

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

AD / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 3233 m / 3297 m

height_diff: +1 m / -1500 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

224197

From the summit of Grands Montets, start completely west on Grands Montets glacier. When the slope becomes steeper (3050 m) pull to the right (north). Descend until an altitude of 2800 meters. The slope divides into two scoops. Take the one on the left (S3 - steep, narrow sequence in the middle) and descend it until the slope becomes gentler. Then pull to the left (south) to take foot on Nant Blanc glacier (2400 m) and traverse if descending towards a well-marked moraine (southwest, 2250 m). Descend following the centre part of this moraine and then Torrent de Bayer until around 1900 meters. Here you are 100 meters above Mer de Glace, below rock barriers. Notes: the trails of skis often lead to the left towards an area of trees. A rappel of 15 meters is required to reach the plateau hanging above Mer de Glace. Several sequences are possible to reach Mer de Glace depending on the snow cover: - downhill via a small narrow corridor. Here you are lower than the gondola. - uphill (traverse a hanging plateau to the left (south), possibly going slightly back up) via a broader corridor. Here you are level with the gondola. These two sequences are exposed to rock falls if there is not enough snow. The traverse Mer de Glace to reach the end of Vallée Blanche. To descend to Chamonix there are two solutions: - Via the gondola and Montenvers train, - On skis (1h15) snow conditions permitting. Follow the centre of the glacier until around 1700 meters. Then approach its left bank (steep sequence) and leave it around 1600 meters. Here you need to take off your skis and carry them for 15 minutes (climb of 50 meters) to reach Cabane des Mottets (located at spot elevation 1638). Then follow the trail called "Sortie Vallée Blanche" on the map until Chamonix.

remarks

It is possible to combine Pas de Chèvre with Vallée Blanche in one day. It is better to keep to a schedule if you do this.

Two steep sections (35-40°) : one in the middle of the descent, the other when arriving in sight of Mer de Glace. The outing on Mer de Glace is often a problem (even dangerous) if there is not enough snow (rock falls in the moraine). Check the snow conditions before making this descent. Ski trails often lead towards trees at the bottom of the descent, it is necessary to make a 20 meter rappel.

The snow transforms very early due to its orientation. If the snow is hard it is not necessary to leave early in the morning.

Access:
Blanche Chamonix motorway then Argentière. Grands Montets parking lot at the entrance to Argentière. Take the free shuttle to return to Argentière from Chamonix.

gear

Glacier equipment (ice axe, a pair of crampons at least for the group, rope, safety material) are indispensable. GPS and navigation instruments in the event of overcast weather.

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