Aiguille d'Argentière : West flank and NW Ridge (Whymper route)

Aiguille d'Argentière : West flank and NW Ridge (Whymper route)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

quality: great

Rating

PD+     III    P4 
5.1 / E2
TD- / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 2550 m / 3901 m

height_diff: +1350 m / -1350 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

NW Ridge: first ascent by Ernest Vassaux, Louis Wanner with mountain guides Jean Métrailler and Joseph Quinodoz, 14 july 1895.

description

Historic route, replaced by the glacier du Mileu

Route

Follow the itinerary for the ‘col du Chardonnet’ until a plateau at 3050m. Loop around to the right towards the upper Chardonnet glacier.
Climb this glacier to its bergschrund (~3500m, can be awkward) then follow the most obvious gully (“Couloir en X”), that gives access to the NW ridge of Aiguille d'Argentière at around 3650m.
Follow this ridge to a rocky outcrop around 3750m. Go onto the N face and climb a large steep slope (often icy unfortunately) which gives access to the W summit of the Aiguille d'Argentière.

Descent

By the same route, (two 50m abseils down the ice slope and another abseil over the bergschrund,) or by the ‘glacier du Milieu’.

remarks

  • N facing all the way up to the summit ridge, then W.
  • 45° for 150m in the relatively narrow gully under the NW ridge then 45° for 100m on the N face.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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