Finsteraarhorn : SW face / N ridge

Finsteraarhorn : SW face / N ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: edge, face

quality: fine

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Rating

PD     II    P4 
3.2 / E1
AD- / S3

heights

elevation min/max : 3032 m / 4273 m

height_diff: +1250 m / -1250 m

route_length: 4.365 km

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 4088 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

The route is described for skiers and takes the same line as the summer route.

Finsteraarhorn : Normal Route
Finsteraarhorn : Normal Route

Route

From the Finsteraarhorn hut go W to the broad gully (NE) and exit to the left onto the glacier.
Go up N towards Pte 3616m. At about 3500 m, go diagonally to the NW towards a spur which leads up to the SW ridge of the Finteraarhorn.
Carry the skis over the spur, (easy,) then continue to the Hugisattel, (ski depot.)
Follow the N ridge, either on the crest or on the SW side, to reach the summit. 1-1h30 from the Hugisattel.

Descent

Either: by the same route
Or: by the cwm beneath Pte 3406m shown on the map (identify the day before from the Grünhornlücke) : descend glacier bowl below the Hugisattel, then, instead of traversing downwards towards the SW ridge of the Finsteraarhorn, traverse to the right above a broad serac fall to reach a saddle at the top of a spur. Cross the spur and descend its left side down a sustained slope, (35 to 40°). The slope opens up before steepening again. (In 2005 the best way was down the centre then on the true right, without difficulty.) This leads to the Fiesherfirn,which you go down until the hut.

remarks

The ascent gradient is fairly constant, therefore efficient.
There is nothing technical between the hut and the Hugisattel, though ski crampons may be useful.
For the option down the cwm under Pte 3406 : 35°/600m graded 3.3 E2.
The N ridge requires good crampon technique on rock/mixed :graded PD.
Most of the skiing is on SW facing slopes.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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