Pointe Zumstein : Traverse of six "4000"

Pointe Zumstein : Traverse of six "4000"

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 294 - Gressoney
  • Swisstopo - 1368 - Zermatt Süd
  • Escursionista - ESC08 - Monte Rosa - Alte valli d'Ayas e del Lys

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

F     II 
3.3 / E1
AD+ / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 3260 m / 4554 m

height_diff: +1798 m / -1798 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Route

Go up the Lys glacier under the W flank of the Vincent Pyramide and cross the snow hump at 4252m, to the east of the Lisjoch (4153m) to reach the Gnifetti col(4452m. From the col climb to the summit of the Zumsteinspitze (4563m) by the frontier ridge. Next climb the Signalkuppe (4554m) which has the Margharita hut on its summit. Re-descend and contour at around 4200m to the foot of the Parrotspize (4432m). Climb this by a snow slope at 50º. Now climb the Ludwigshöhe (4311m) by its N side. To climb the Corno Nero (or Schwarzhorn) (4321m), go down directly to the saddle between it and the Ludwigshöhe and so up to the summit. Then go to the Vincent col (4087m) and climb up to the Vincent Pyramide (4215m).

Descent

Rejoin the ascent route and so back down to the Gnifetti hut.

remarks

  • You need to be well acclimatized.
  • Route finding difficult if there is fog, lots of crevasses.
  • The Gnifetti Col can also be reached from the Monte Rosa Hut. (see Zumsteinspitze from the Monte Rosa hut
  • Possible to traverse Italy to Switzerland or vice versa
  • Probably most enjoyable to do on skis in Spring.
  • You can add a dubious 7th summit by going to the Balmenhorn (4167m), just E of the Lysjoch (biv Giordano on its summit.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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