Petites Jorasses : S Ridge

Petites Jorasses : S Ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge

quality: great

Rating

D  
5c > 5a

    III    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2835 m / 3650 m

height_diff_up: 815 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Magnificent, varied route with a complex glacier approach and excellent rock climbing on the ridge. In a wils situation with excellent views of the E Face of the Grand Jorasses.

Approach (See approach for Gervasutti Bivouac.)

Route 4-5h

From the Bivouac Gervasutti, go up rocks for 80m from where you can see a gully with loose boulder and scree. Go down this as best you can to reach the Fébrouzie glacier. Go up this, working your way through the large crevasses to a bergschrund. Overcome this and go up the large snow slope (150m, 45°). Turn to the right to reach a terrace at the foot of the rocks. From here follow the rocky ridge, mainly on its crest; 1 move of 5b, otherwise moves of 4b/c. Where the good rock ends either continue up the snow ridge or go along the rocks, rotten in one section. From a little col, go up easily to the summit.

Descent 3-4h

By the normal rout or by climbing down the ascent route. Possible to make some abseils down the modern routes on the S face.

remarks

The bergschrund can cause problems at the end of the season.
The rock is excellent on the ridge.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Complete set of friends/nuts.
Perhaps a technical axe for the bergschrund.
Perhaps a hammer and pegs in reserve.

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