Mont Dolent : S Face (normal way), from Swiss Val Ferret

Mont Dolent : S Face (normal way), from Swiss Val Ferret

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • Swisstopo - 1365 - Grand-St-Bernard
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)

quality: medium

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Rating

PD+     II 
3.3 / E2
AD / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 1600 m / 3820 m

height_diff: +2220 m / -2220 m

route_length: 18.632 km

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

A. Adams Reilly and Edward Whymper with mountain guides Henri Charlet, Michel Croz and Michel Payot, 9 july 1864.

description

High mountain tour to a superb summit which can be done in a very long day or by sleeping at the bivouac hut.

Ascent to the Cesare Fiorio Bivouac:

Route with grid references from the Swiss map:

Mont Dolent
Mont Dolent

After La Fouly, park the car 100m before Le Clou (573470-86150). Go down to the Dranse de Ferret and cross it bridge. Climb back up to the SW until 1798m (573200-85640). Go S, then slightly to the E to reach la Léchere (573340-85420).
Climb SW and then go along the Crette de la Gouille to the S, until the NE foot of the Crette de la Perche (8572515-84495). Continue diagonally slightly rightwards and go into the Combe des Fonds. Follow this to the Petit Col Ferret (571180-82875).

At the end of the season or when there is a very low avalanche risk, it is possible to go up the Combe des Fonds from la Fouly, (same start as for the Grande Lui).

Cross the col to the right without losing any height to reach the S ridge of the Pointe de Allobrogia (570935-82815). Go NW pour to reach the Fiorio hut (570595-83415).

Ascent From the bivouac to the summit of Mont Dolent:

Go W, then slightly N to reach the Pré de Barre glacier (569955-83780) close to a rocky spur (2900m). The traverse on steep slopes towards the glacier, ski crampons may be necessary.

Going N pass to the E of Points 3188m et 3336m (569975-84530). Go up the glacier to the bergshrund. Go up the final snow slopes until the foot of the rocks on the SE ridge, ski depot. Keep to the W side of the SE ridge then go up a gully to rejoin the ridge just before the summit.

Descent

If conditions allow it is possible to ski from the summit, (see remarks). Make an exposed traverse under the ridge to reach a large gully. Descend the first part and make a little traverse to the left to reach the ascent gully.
For the remainder the descent route is basically the same as for the ascent, choosing the best slopes for skiing.

remarks

Starting the descent from the summit can be awkward depending on the conditions (45° (S5) very exposed) The grading at this point is D+
The S4 grading assumes starting from the ski depot.
Orientation : Up to the Petit Col Ferret NE, then SE.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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