Weissmies : Normal Route

Weissmies : Normal Route

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 284 - Mischabel
  • Swisstopo - 1329 - Saas

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

PD-     III 
3.3 / E2
AD / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 3080 m / 4023 m

height_diff: +1000 m / -1000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

First ascent: end of august 1855, Jakob Christian Häusser with guide Peter Joseph Zurbriggen.

description

Route

Weissmies - main routes
Weissmies - main routes

From the Hohsasshütte, go up for 50m besides the ski lift, then down the piste for about 100m. Go leftwards to a broad glacier plateau at about 3200m and traverse to the right to reach its true left bank.
Go up through a labyrinth of seracs to reach the more friendly slopes above. Go up to the obvious col at about 3800m, between Pte 3815 and the summit. Go along the ridge, (cornice risk) for about 100m, to where you can leave your skis then easily up to the summit.

Descent

Either: by the ascent route
Or; depending on conditions, it may be better to go to the left and descend a steep gully, (300m, 35 to 45°) clearly visible under Pte 3307m :When descending the NW shoulder under Pte 3813m, you can see the cliff on the side of the Malliga glacier which acts as a waymark.
At the foot of the gully (3150m), at the level of a little flat area, go sharply to the right to pass along under a rock barrier and reach the glacier. This avoids the serac zone of the ascent.

remarks

Good ratio between walking and skiing
Some serac fall danger.
Gets the sun late.
By staying in the Hohsaas Hütte, at the top of the lift system, you gain 1h in the morning over staying in the Weissmies Hut.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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