Nordend : Normal Route

Nordend : Normal Route

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 284 - Mischabel
  • Swisstopo - 1348 - Zermatt
  • Escursionista - ESC08 - Monte Rosa - Alte valli d'Ayas e del Lys

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

PD     III 
3.2 / E1
AD- / S3

heights

elevation min/max : 2883 m / 4609 m

height_diff: +1726 m / -1726 m

height_diff_difficulties: 91 m

difficulties_height: 4515 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

First ascent 26.08.1861 by T.F. et Edward N. Buxton, John Jeremy Cowell, Michel-Clément Payot et Binder.

description

Approach To the Monte Rosa Hut

a) train Zermatt - Rotenboden. Follow the broad summer track either to its end , or descend directly onto the Gornergletscher (blue paint marks) and traverse the glacier towards the hut (waymarked with flags).

Nordend - Normal Route
Nordend - Normal Route

b) train Zermatt - Gornergrat - Stockhorn
c) On foot from Zermatt via Rotenboden. From Zermatt follow the road then the footpath, (signposted Gornergrat) passing by Riffelalp and Ridfelberg until Rotenboden, then follow a).
d) From Zermatt by the Gornergletscher

Route

Go up the moraine and follow a cwm, then a snow bulge to the Obere Plattje (3109m), Go up a 100m slope at 35/40°, trending left near the top. Go up easier angled slopes keeping to the right of the seracs, often badly crevassed, best to be roped up. Go up the snow bowls to reach a flat section at 4100m. (Until this point the route is the same as for the Dufourspitze). Go up one of the two glacial ramps on the left to reach the Silbersattel, 4515m.
From the Silbersattel climb the snow/ice ridge, maybe corniced , then easy mixed to the summit (4609m)

Descent

As for the ascent, but without passing by the hut, then by the Gornergletscher and Furi (until the start of May, later in the season it is better to return via Rotenboden.)

remarks

A long route at altitude, not to be underestimated
- The last part up to the Silbersattel can be very complicated in certain conditions
- The final ridge can have enormous cornices on its E side.
1800m height gain plus 200m back up to Rotenboden
Lots of bivvy sites between the hut and Obere Plattje
Walking to the hut from Zermatt is a 1400m HG, initially mostly in forest.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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