Gendarme d'Orny : Papa Paye

Gendarme d'Orny : Papa Paye


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium


5b > 5bA0

    II    P1  E2 


elevation_max: 2900 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

difficulties_height: 2811 m




The route takes the obvious central line of grey rock, which starts a third of the way up the cliff and forms the left wall of the large open corner and ends to the left of the summit prow of rock. Clearly visible from the access path to the Orny hut and also from the hut itself, (especialy the top corner crack.) The route gives an excellent outing on the way up to the hut.

Papa Paye
Papa Paye


  1. From Champex/Praz de Fort: At the ruins of the old hut (Emile Javelle) just before the first lake, go up behind the ruins and follow a ramp slanting leftwards. Some scrambling leftwards leads to easier, broken ground which you ascend to the foot of the rock face.
  2. From the Cabane d'Orny: Traverse across to go under the Aiguille de la Cabane and continue, faint path, until you arrive at the foot of the face.

Two starts are possible: Just up on the right from the lowest point of the cliff, the second line of bolts. Or 10m further up at a corner with the left wall water polished and a red spot on the right wall.


Start 1, Original line
L1: 5a Climb up to a bolted belay.
L2: 5a Climb trending rightwards, towards the obvious corner and a good ledge with a bolted belay and slings, visible during the approach.

Start 2, shared with Voie des Surplombs
P1: 5a+ 55m Start up the corner and where there is easier ground to the right, (Voie des Surplombs,) go straight up (two bolts) until easier climbing leads to the belay at the good ledge, top of L2 above.

P2 or L3: 5b 52m Difficult start and then lovely climbing well to the left of the corner before a traverse right, (at a bolt a few metres beneath a small overhang,) and then up to a good ledge.
P3 or L4: 5a (or 5b) 40m Make an easy rising traverse to the right to the obvious final corner crack. Climb this and either escape to the right, (5a) or continue straight up, 5b easier than it looks.


It is possible to walk off or abseil.
If abseilling, for the first abseil, use the abseil point on the left, looking down. The second abseil point is several metres to the right, looking down, of the belay used in ascent.


The description above does not seem to match that given in "Plaisir West" or "Entremont Escalades" but does more or less match that given in "Classic and Plaisir". In any case, the route follows the obvious central line of the cliff.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


10 quickdraws, 60m x 2 ropes. Small selection of nuts and friends


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