Nid des Hirondelles : Formica

Nid des Hirondelles : Formica

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Escursionista - ESC02 - La Thuile - Piccolo San Bernardo
  • Escursionista - ESC03 - Valgrisenche - Val di Rhemes

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5c
    P1 

heights

difficulties_height: 1690 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The easiest route on the crag. It follows the obvious large corner at the right hand end of the cliff. It is possible to combine with a further three pitches on the upper tier, reputedly at a similar grade.

Approach 15mins

From the hairpin follow the faint path to the right hand end of the crag. Identify the large corner with a steep right hand side and a slabby left hand side. The route starts up a scruffy ramp to a corner topped with a dead tree. There is a bolt without hanger part way up the ramp and a bolt with a hangar at the start of the difficulties. You can either rope up here or lower down at the foot of the ramp.

Route

L1 3c 30m Climb the loose corner, past the dead tree to better rock and the foot of the main corner. 2 bolt belay with an abseil point to the left.
L2 5b 35m Climb the slab then the corner to a belay with an abseil chain
L3 5b 30m Trend slightly left then up over two overhangs on good holds to an abseil chain.
L4 5c 35m Easy ground then slab climbing followed by steeper but easier climbing. The belay/abseil chain is very low. There is a bolt 5m further back.

Descent

Abseil back down the route

Alternatively continue upwards, walking, to two bolts in the rocks above. From here traverse (2b), passing two bolts, for 50m to a two bolt belay. A line of bolts for 3 pitches start from here. It is also possible to continue traversing for another 50m (2b), no bolts, to an abseil point which gets you back down "Calimero" in two abseils (58m + 50m).

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

10 quickdraws. (2×60 m ropes if you choose to abseil down the big corner of Calimero)

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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