Montserrat - Secteur Agulles : Roca Gran de la Portella: via Lapònia

Montserrat - Secteur Agulles : Roca Gran de la Portella: via Lapònia

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Associated waypoints

View in other lang es - ca

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

5c > 5c

  A0    P1 

heights

elevation_max: 927 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

description

Approach

From the Agulles Hut (access to the hut) it is possible to reach the starting point of this route by abseiling down an abyss called Pou de la Portella. The abseil is equipped with two bolts and a Karabiner tied with ropes (take spare cordelette in order to reinforce the whole set-up). To get there from the hut, you need to get off the path that leads to the Portella just before arriving there. Then, skirt around the base of the wall of the needle to the left along a tiny path that firstly descends and secondly ascends to the edge of a buttress. Descend then a corridor with some oaks in it immediately below the wall until you find the abseil installation to the left. You need two ropes of 60m to reach the bottom of the abyss with one single abseil.

The first meters of the abseil are outside but not long afterwards you will notice a dark opening in the rock right under you. It looks as if it were impossible to go through it. Just above the opening there are three more bolts joined by a chain. From this point you will enter the abyss, which widens as you descend. Shortly after entering it it also becomes brighter thanks to the light that comes from the lower opening.

It isn't unlikely that your ropes get stuck when you pull them to recover them after abseiling. In such case, the solution is easy: go back to the abseil installation climbing the track that leads to the Portella through the W face of the Roca Gran de la Portella.

You set foot on the bottom of the abyss a few meters away from the starting point of the route. You will find the first bolt of the route Lapònia to the right as ou go towards the exit of the abyss.

The route

Visit Escalatroncs website for a detailed drawing of the route.
P1 :: 35m :: V+/Ae :: Get out of the cave diagonally to the left. When you are outside, you’ll find the artificial section.

P2 :: 45m :: V+ :: The most difficult section is at the beginning. Afterwards, the wall becomes less steep. You could escape from this belay station to the right.

P3 :: 30m :: V+/Ae :: Go up to the left until you reach an overhang where there is an artificial section.

P4 :: 30m :: IV :: The most difficult section is at the beginning. After that, the difficulty decreases.

P5 :: 20m :: IV+ :: Overcome the last steep section and reach the summit.

Return

Abseil down the NE face and reach the Portella, where there is the path to the hut or to el Bruc.

remarks

Very well protected route. You can get off it walking from the second belay station to the path that goes to the hut. Don't forget your headlamp if you plan to abseil down the abyss.

gear

17 quickdraws, some of them long for the 1st pitch and aiders. Headlamp needed for the approach through the abyss of pou de la Portella.

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