Le Minaret : Éperon SE (Voie Mazars - Rébuffat)

Le Minaret : Éperon SE (Voie Mazars - Rébuffat)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: great

Rating

TD  
6a > 5c

    III    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2760 m / 3450 m

height_diff: +700 m / -1700 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 3200 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Superb montagne route taking a logical line, classic Rebuffat. It seems much longer than its 300m height gain. Sustained and strenuous climbing at 5b, some of moves of 5c and a harder section, but with pegs, (6a-b/A0).
The route is in three parts. For the first tower you mainly follow the groove to the right of the S face. The second tower has a long and very sustained pitch and then to reach the summit you mainly follow the crest of the SE spur.

Approach 1h

From the Argentière hut, follow the moraine of the Améthystes glacier until level with the Minaret. Go up the snow towards the right end of a large ledge at the foot of the cliff.

Ascent 8h

1st Tower
Identify the large groove in the right side of the face and get as near as you can to it by following the large ledge. The start is at a corner leading to a detached pinnacle. On the left of this corner is a large detached flake.

The Minaret - SE Spur (Rébuffat-Mazars)
The Minaret - SE Spur (Rébuffat-Mazars)
L1 4c 45m Climb the corner, fairly easy, then trend to the left towards the large detached flake. Go over it and climb a smooth corner until a large jammed block, (abandoned friend) which is bypassed to the left. Bypass a second jammed block (another abandoned friend) on the right to reach the belay, (slings) on a ledge next to the large groove.
L2 5a 45m Gain the foot of the groove and climb it, a smooth corner then easier runnels until you come to an overhang. It is also possible to stay on the left of the groove in the runnels (pegs) but the rock is not as good. Belay on a bolt and pegs.
L3 5b 30m Turn the overhang on the left, (moving peg) then come back to the groove to climb the nice, easier runnels, go past a jammed block to a belay (2 pegs) at the foot of broad, dark chimney.
L4 5b 20m Climb the chimney, (either by old fashioned chimneying or by the runnels on the left, harder to find protection,) and after a steep passage, (good holds) gain a ledge. Belay on pegs.
L5 5c 45m Follow the chimney with the help of some nice cracks and runnels on the left, (2 pegs) to the top of the groove. Reach a comfortable ledge in the sun at the shoulder of the first tower. Belay on slings.
L6 3b 30m Climb the shoulder keeping to the right of the crest until you reach a nice corner. Belay on pegs and slings.
L7 5b 45m Climb the corner, (belay bolts of "Rasta Metal" just to the right), then go up a series of steep cracks and runnels (peg) until the angle eases on rejoining the crest of the spur. Belay on a peg and a sling at the foot of a steep wall.
L8 4b 30m Turn the wall on the right, (another bolt belay of "Rasta Metal" to the right) and go up to the summit of the first tower. Belay on slings around a very large rock spike.
2nd Tower
Descend into the gap using little flakes for protection. Belay on a very large flake.
L9 6a/b > A0 45m Directly above the belay, steep runnels (2 pegs) then a little overhang with good holds (peg). It is steep and worth 6a/b free, but goes at A0. Follow logically the nice runnels (pegs) and a steeper crack. A difficult mantleshelf on a rounded ridge leads to the top of the 2nd tower. Belay on slings and pegs.
Summit Tower
Descend into the gap and belay on a spike at the foot of a detached pinnacle.
L10 4c 35m Climb down for 5/6m to the right edge of the detached pinnacle and traverse to reach a wide corner, beware of rope drag. Climb the corner to get onto a superb slab which you climb to the crest of the spur. Belay on pitons.
L11 5b 35m Go to the other side of the spur (peg), climb a smooth but short corner, then a steep corner and traverse to the right. Climb a wall with nice flakes and an awkward rounded mantleshelf. Belay on pegs.
L12 6a 40m Climb the large blocks above the belay, traverse towards and climb a layback corner. The start is very smooth and is a good 6a without "a shoulder". Gain a broad ledge at the foot of a large block. An awkward mantleshelf, difficult to protect, to reach the summit.

Descent 2h

Abseil back down the route (beware of the rope snagging) until the last belay of "Rasta Metal" (just under the top of the first tower). Then abseil down "Rasta Metal" (solid abseil points with two bolts or a bolt and a peg.)

remarks

Credit to the first ascentionists and also to those of Rasta Metal.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

2×50 m ropes
Set of friends (camalots from 0.3 to 3)
A small set of nuts
Slings to improve the belays

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