Brévent : Tartiflette

Brévent : Tartiflette

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c > 5b

    I    P2 

heights

elevation_min: 2000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 160 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Mathieu, Méot 2003

description

Close to the lift, and with good rock, the route lacks charisma as it winds its way up a vegetated cliff.

Approach 20mins

From the Planpraz lift station walk up the main path towards the Brevent. The track passes through a gap in the rock and then a hundred metres further, just as it levels out a bit, there is a path on the right. Follow this for a few minutes until you leave it to go up to the foot of an obvious steep slab. Bolt at the base with a white sling tied through it. (N45º56'31" E006º50'76")

Route

L1 5b 33m The first bolt is quite far off the ground. At the top of the pitch traverse right to a vegetated corner.
L2 5c 44m A surprisingly good and sustained pitch.
L3 5c 33m The belay is on the right, above a little corner. (The last bolt has lost its hangar.)
At this point it is possible to abseil back down the route, all belays are equipped for abseilling. If not, abseil off the back and walk across to the foot of a ridge.
L4 4c Climb the ridge.
L5 4a Continue along the crest and abseil (5m), then walk to the foot of the final pinnacle.
L6 5a Follow the bolts up the face, (finish shared with Raclette.)

Descent

Abseil from the top of the pinnacle (7m) and walk back down to the top path coming down from the Brevent, keeping well to the right, (looking down) to avoid the worse of the boulders and vegetation

remarks

If you abseil down from the top of pitch 3 it is then possible to walk up along the base of the cliff, passing the first line of bolts, (Pitch 1 and 2 of Raclette,) to a second line which is pitch 3 and 4 of Raclette. (5c, 5c/6a)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

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