Dalle de Vallorcine : Croc Mignons

Dalle de Vallorcine : Croc Mignons

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5b+
    I    P1 

description

Approach 10 mins

From the Vallorcine railway station/ski lift carpark take the little road across the railway and then turn right to walk through a field to a signpost pointing left for the “ecole d’escalade”. Follow the path upwards through the trees to the foot of the crag. Can also be reached from a path out of the back of the Buet campsite, (10mins).
Where the path emerges from the forest there is an overhang with line of bolts going straight through it and a second line just to the left.

Vallorcine, red route
Vallorcine, red route

Route

L1 20m 5a Follow the bolts directly through the overhang then trend right to a comfortable ledge with an old, large cemented ring.
L2 22m 5b+ Traverse left, past a first bolt and ignoring another bolt straight above, (6a+), continue leftwards to a shallow groove and an ancient bolt. Go up the groove until it is possible to move back rightwards and then up to another big belay ring. (It is possible to link the two pitches together by continuing directly up the second overhang, 6a+)
L3 22m 5a Up easily then trend leftwards, flake, to climb through a stepped overhang section to a good ledge and large belay ring.
L4 42m 5b Up a little slab and then the corner, more awkward than it looks, to exit onto slabs, passing a belay ring, and up to the chains at the top of the crag. (Alternatively, climb the corner further right, laybacking (5b+, no in-situ protection near the top.)

Descent

Either abseil back down the route, unsociable if other climbers are about, or follow the chains leftwards, (looking up) to the descent ladders.

remarks

After the first pitch the bolts are old. All belays on single, large cemented in metal rings.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

external_resources

Crag Climbs in Chamonix, Burnier & Potard, Vamos 2011

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