Rives de la Mer de Glace - Rocher des Mottets : Princesse

Rives de la Mer de Glace - Rocher des Mottets : Princesse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

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Rating

PD  
4c > 4cA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1083 m / 1620 m

height_diff: +537 m / -70 m

height_diff_difficulties: 320 m

difficulties_height: 1300 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Situated above the village of “Les Bois”, the latest of three “Via Cordatas”, set up to the right of Voie Caline, on the slabby rocks of Mottets (north facing).

Approach 35 mins

From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “sommet de la norvege”. (Start of the Via Corda Alpina). Follow the path to the right around three hairpins, to a cairn and a dead tree in the form of a hockey stick, (also a name plate on the rock.). If you get to a sign post “Voie Caline” you have gone too far.

Route

The route consists of 19 pitches with an average length of 25 metres, well equipped with bolts and easy to follow, (either bolts or cairns.) At one point you will see the bolts of Voie Caline over to the left Princesse finishes at an obvious rust coloured dome.
There are some pitches of 4 and the penultimate pitch is 4c. However. the climbing is never sustained.

Descent 1h

From the last belay, follow faint tracks and cairns to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path back towards Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the sign-posted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Les Bois.

remarks

  • An enjoyable outing, technically slightly harder than the Via Alpina and Voie Caline.
  • Beware of the pine needles!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 40m rope
  • 10 quickdraws
  • some slings

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