Aiguilles rouges de Triolet - Pointe centrale : La Bérésina

Aiguilles rouges de Triolet - Pointe centrale : La Bérésina

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c > 5b

    II    P2 

heights

elevation_max: 3327 m

height_diff_difficulties: 340 m

difficulties_height: 3100 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1-1.20h

From the hut take the path that leads directly to the moraine, (ignoring the path that which climbs up to the right towards the 2ème pointe centrale ("Kermesse Folk" and "Profumo Probito")). Sometimes you have to cross snow slopes to reach the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier bowl. Go up the right side of this to the foot of the spur. The start is 10-15m to the right of an obvious large corner.

Route

All the belays have 2 bolts linked with cord.
P1 3 The sling at the next belay is visible from the start, length of the pitch depending on snow levels. Start 10-15m right of the corner,and take the easiest line trending right. No bolts.
P2 4b Straight up. Bolts far apart.
P3 4c Start on the left then straight up to the belay. One bolt low down then nothing.
P4 4a Straight up then slightly leftwards. The belay is 5-6m below an overhang.
P5 5b Traverse to the left, then straight up, steep but well bolted. Go slightly rightwards to the belay.
P6 5b Straight up the wall. Slabs with small, superficial cracks. Bolts far apart.
P7 5c Follow the crest of the ridge then traverse to the right under a suspended corner. Bolts more frequent. Superb, exposed pitch.
P8 5b Climb the corner exiting left when possible then finishing on the right. Great pitch.
P9 5a Go straight up. A short steep step with a bolt. Go slightly to the left, then straight up.
P10 3a Go straight up the broken rocks, no bolts.
P11 3c Go straight up to the left of the crest. Belay on the crest. 1 bolt
P12 Horizontal ridge then a little step to reach the summit. No in-situ belay. (Easy)

Descent

P12-11-10: Best to down-climb, high risk of abseil rope snagging.
Abseil from then on, (risk of rope snagging on Pitch 7.)

remarks

A recommended route with very good rock in the middle section.
Superb mountain setting with good views from the summit.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

2×50 m ropes, Small friends, 10 quickdraws

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