La Frasse : Fun Five Runnels

La Frasse : Fun Five Runnels

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Swisstopo - 40 - Le Léman
  • Swisstopo - 271 - Chablais
  • IGN - 3528ET - Morzine - Massif du Chablais - Les Portes du Soleil

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: medium

Rating

5b+ > 5b+

    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 935 m / 1000 m

height_diff_up: 65 m

orientations

E W S N

description

This description is for three routes each of 2 or 3 pitches, which when combined give a very good introduction to climbing slabby, limestone runnels (cannelures.)
The routes are 3-4m apart at the left hand of the crag and the each second pitch follows the line of an obvious runnel. The runnels are not visible from below, but are reached by starting up the second, third and fourth line of bolts from the left end of the crag.
N.B. The first line of bolts is a three pitch route at 4b, (keep to the left for the third pitch.) Each pitch is about 18m long.
In between the three main runnels are fainter runnel lines with some, (sparse,) bolts. These lines reputedly go at 6a/6a+.

Routes

Route 1: Bolted on hold at the start.

L1 17m 4c Polished
L2 40m 5b+ Follow the most obvious runnel, 6 bolts. (N.B. another runnel, just to the left, fades at half height.) It is possible to split the pitch after 25m

Route 2: Starts just to the left of a double tree

L3 18m 4c Polished, hanging belay.
L4 40m 5b A fine runnel in the centre of the slab. The difficulties ease after 25m, (where it is possible to make a belay.)

Route 3: Starts up the bolts just right of the double tree.

L5 17m 4c Polished
L6 40m 5b+ The right hand of the three runnel lines. It is possible to traverse right after about 15m to gain a more pronounced pair of runnels. This gives easier climbing, but without any bolts for 12-15m. At the belay chains continue more easily for 15m to the top.

Descent

It is just possible to abseil back down with new 60m ropes. If not make two abseils, stopping at any of the many bolted belays. It is also possible to walk back down from the top of the routes, (going to the right looking upwards.)

remarks

The bottom part of the crag is used a lot by school parties top-roping, hence the polish.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

10 quickdraws

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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