Le Montenvers : Voie Josiane

Le Montenvers : Voie Josiane

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

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Rating

D  
5c > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1040 m / 1840 m

height_diff: +800 m / -902 m

height_diff_difficulties: 220 m

difficulties_height: 1550 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

J. Grand Clément et M. Arizzi en juillet 2006

description

The « Voie Josiane » is one of three long routes at this cliff, the right hand sector at Montenvers. Slab climbing with good bolts.

Approach

From the Montenvers station take the path which goes towards the Mer de Glace ice caves. At the first signpost follow the path for "rocher des Mottets", passing firstly under the cables of the cable car then below the Montenvers hotel. Just before the path starts to descend into a little ravine, either keep high on the moraine material on the right to find a faint path, or continue on the main path to a boulder with a faint red circle and a fragile cairn (UTM 32T 0338636, 5088852), climb up on the right side for a few metres to join the upper, faint path directly. Descend through the alpine rhododendrons until you reach a triangulation, (survey,) point, next to some slabs. (Just before the trig point there is a comfortable spot to leave the sacks, UTM 32T 0338676, 5088864)

An abseil line, (chain belays, the first is can be seen a few metres to the right, looking down, of the trig point,) gives access to the foot of the routes. Keep trending leftwards, (looking outwards towards the Mer de Glace), to join the line of bolts on Josiane. Six abseils.

The Voie Josiane is the route furthest to the right, looking towards the cliff, i.e back to the glacier.

Route

L1 4c 40m
L2 5a 35m
L3 5c 35m, one move to overcome an overhang
L4 4c 35m
L5 5b 35m
L6 5c 35m, one move on a small finger hold
L7 5b 35m

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

12 quickdraws
2×50 m rope for the abseils

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