Cogne - Valnontey : Fiumana di Money

Cogne - Valnontey : Fiumana di Money

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Escursionista - ESC09 - Valsavarenche - Gran Paradiso
  • Escursionista - ESC10 - Valle di Cogne - Gran Paradiso

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

AD+   3    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1666 m / 2000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 180 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach : 2h

From Cogne drive to Valnontey car park; take the Climbers' path to a junction (signposted - Other Routes) and take the L fork. Follow this higher path along the true right bank. Pass the 'Patri' turning (sign) continuing along the main path to the 'Erfaulet' bridge. Do not cross the bridge; instead continue left until below the Repentance wall; sign 'Flash Estivo'. Turn left to climb the path into the RH bay (Repentance and Mondey Money are in the LH bay) Fiumana Money is the RH icefall. (Flash Estivo is the LH icefall.)

Route

L1 3 40m Climb up the middle, belay on ice screws.
L2 2 40m Continue staight up to the rocks on the right, peg belay.
L3 2 40m Go diagonally leftwards, belay on one old bolt and some pegs under a little roof.(true left bank of the gully).
L4 3 45m Take the easiest line up a bulge in the middle and come back to the right to a bolt belay.
L5 3 50m Go up the middle of the last steep section, bolt belay on the right, fairly high up in the rocks, or on the left higher up, (55-60m ropes.)

Descent

Abseil (2×50 m OK), ice column for the last abseil point.

remarks

A broad icefall giving lots of variations.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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