Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey : From the Dames Anglaises

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey : From the Dames Anglaises

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

AD+     V    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 3490 m / 4112 m

height_diff: +850 m / -1750 m

height_diff_difficulties: 850 m

difficulties_height: 3490 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach See approach from the Craveri Bivouac

Route

From the Craveri bivouac make a descending traverse to the left at the level of the Schneider ledges, then climb back up to the right to bypass the Pointe Gugliermina on the left.
Continue up the ridge and traverse the two peaks of the Blanche de Peuterey.

Descent

Abseil to the col de Peuterey.
Follow the line of the rochers Grüber, abseilling down them on keeping always to the right to reach the Frêney galcier.
Cross this and descend before climbing back up to the Col de l'Innominata and so onto the small Chatelet glacier.
From here go without difficulties to the Monzino hut

remarks

The descent of the Rochers Gruber,is long, the abseils are not equipped and difficult to find.
The traverse under the hanging glacier is seriously exposed, very dangerous!
Long and remote route.

gear

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