Mont Chetif : Pierre navigatore delle creste

Mont Chetif : Pierre navigatore delle creste

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5bA0

    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2000 m / 2343 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 2100 m

orientations

E W S N

description

A nice route on good rock, well equipped.

Access

Coming from the tunnel, about a km before Courmayeur, take the road up into the Val Veny, (brown sign). At the first fork, keep left, signposted Pre de Pascal. At the Monte Bianco Refuge there is road on the left leading up to the Pre de Pascal, (bar/restaurant, top of cable car, ski schools,) where the road is gated. Park the car below this, just before the sign indicating private land.

Approach 35min

Take the path that starts up the centre of the ski piste, then traverses, more or less horizontally, under Mt Chetif, some chains etc. After 25-30 mins you descend some chains to where a rock buttress comes down to the path. Here you will see one or two bolts belonging to another climb. Continue on the path for another 3-4 minutes until there is a faint path, (maybe a cairn,) going up a steep grass slope for 50m to the foot of the rocks just to the right of a steep red wall.

Route

L1 5a 20m 4 bolts
L2 5a 25m 5 bolts
L3 5c, 6a 30m 8 bolts
L4 5a 25m 6 bolts
L5 6a 25m 8 bolts
L6 5b 30m 5 bolts
L7 5c 25m 5 bolts
Monte Chetif - Pierre navigatore di creste
Monte Chetif - Pierre navigatore di creste

Descent

Either abseil back down the route, (double bolts linked with rope and equipped with rings), or preferably, continue up to the summit of Mt Chetif, Madonna, 10 mins, superb views and walk back down the footpath to join a ski piste and so back to the car, (45mins from the summit.)

remarks

  • There has been a lot of bolting of new routes on the SE wall of Mt Chetif recently. The guides office in Courmayeur will have the up to date information.
  • An excellent route on good rock with the bolts close together at the main difficulties.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Helmet, 9 quickdraws, 60m rope if you want to abseil from R7

external_resources

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