Aiguille Pourrie : Les Copains d'abord

Aiguille Pourrie : Les Copains d'abord

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge, face

quality: medium

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation_max: 2450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 500 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From Flegere 1 hour

Follow the undulating ‘Grand Balcon’ path until you reach a long wooded crest next to the large combe at the height of the Brévent-Flégère cable-car link. From there, ascend, as best you can, the crest (use the goat trails). It will be taxing at first but continue upwards through the rhododendrons. Take a traverse line to the left to a scree field. Ascend the scree while bearing left to find the start of the route, marked by a cairn, at the foot of a rocky ridge between two gullies.

From Planpraz 1h30

Follow the ‘lac Cornu’ path same as for Pointe 2511m. Go past the ‘lac Cornu’ chairlift and descend the large combe that lies underneath the Brévent-Flégère cable-car link, passing the base of the Aiguilles Pourrie 2562 and 2511. Continue a descending traverse towards the left to reach the lowest point of the pinnacled ridge coming down from Pointe 2450, (near a group of pines).

Route

L1 5b
L2 5b
Short abseil of 8m or down-climb then walk to a pleasant and steep bastion.
L3 5b gully-corner
20m abseil or down-climb to the left avoiding the little slab at the end of the 3rd pitch.
L4 5a
L5 4c
L6 6a (1 move)
L7 5a
L8 5a
L9 5b Follow the ridge by way of a slab, easy angled at the beginning.
L10 5c
L11 5a followed by walk
L12 4a Knife-edge and walk
L13 4a Slab (bolt hangars with old, thin rope

Descent

From the summit descend easily to the left to regain the ‘Col de la Glière’ path. It is also possible to descend the gully between ‘La pointe 2511’ and ‘2450’ (trickier) to arrive on the large scree field at the foot of the ‘Aiguilles Pourrie’.

remarks

Not a sustained route, never athletic except for the start of the 3rd pitch. Reasonable climbing in a nice enough setting with spires and pinnacles. Care needed with certain holds.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

8 quickdraws and two 50m ropes, one 50m rope might suffice.

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