Dent du Géant : Géant Branché

Dent du Géant : Géant Branché

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
6a > 5c

    II    P2+ 

heights

elevation min/max : 3300 m / 4013 m

height_diff_up: 700 m

height_diff_difficulties: 140 m

difficulties_height: 3880 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Beautiful route, not well equipped (one spit and one piton), which would deserve to become classical due to its moderate difficulty, and the rock's quality.

Approach

As for the normal route, but go to the right at the level of the first bolt to make a belay at the foot of a chimney corner. (You can climb this pitch even if someone is on the normal route, without causing problems.)

Route

L1 5b 15m Start as for the normal route, then at the level of the first bolt go to the right to make a belay at the foot of an obvious chimney corner, (no in-situ gear, a used sling visible in the corner.)
L2 6a 40m Climb the corner, a move of 6a at the level of a little overhang, with a mantleshelf/pull-up on smallish flakes, then easier towards the ridge on cracked rocks. (Belay at the foot of a large, closed corner.)
L3 5c 25m Climb up the back of the corner, then slightly to the right on the ridge. Belay at the top of the corner.
L4 5c+ 30m Climb a slightly overhanging crack, then continue until vertically below the fixed ropes on the normal route.
L5 5c+ 30m Climb the wall by a crack system on the right to reach a peg, (clearly visible from below,) in a slab. (Easier than it looks.) Make an upwards traverse to the right to reach the front of the pillar. Belay at a large block on the ridge.
L6 5b 45m Climb an obvious crack system, then belay at the level of the normal route at the end of the difficulties.
L7 100m Move together until the two summits, the furthest one is the highest.

Descent

In 3 abseils, (bolted) down the S face. See description for normal route for more information.

remarks

Nice route, not much in-situ gear, (1 bolt and 1 peg.) It could become a classic given its situation, quality of rock and moderate difficulty

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Friends up to No, 3, set of nuts, perhaps a hammer and some pegs.

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