Aiguille Pourrie : la Fontès de Jouvence

Aiguille Pourrie : la Fontès de Jouvence

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

TD-  
5c+ > 5bA0

    II    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2270 m / 2511 m

height_diff_difficulties: 240 m

difficulties_height: 2270 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Opening August 2000 and 2001, Laurent Colignon, Michel Fontès.

description

The route can be seen from the top of the Index chair.

Approach

From the Index col head towards the ‘col de la Glière’, by way of the Glière combe.
Identify the Aiguille Pourrie and the 3rd pillar, whose base reaches well into the scree slopes.
The route starts at the base of this pillar, marked by a gully on the left and a deeper gully on the right.
It should take about an hour from the Index col. There may be snow in the Glière combe.

229834

Route

L1 4c The first bolt is quite high up. A nice engaging pitch. Belay on 2 bolts.
L2 5c Short but with nice holds, well equipped. Belay on 2 bolts.
L3 3c Easy pitch. Belay on the bolts.
L4 5b+ Long pitch going up on the left of the pillar then back on to the ridge. Belay on the bolts.
L5 4a Short pitch on the ridge. Belay before the rockfield.
L6 5c Go up in the gully then bear left onto the left flank of the pillar, to the belay bolts.
L7 5c+ Straight up then loop around to the right to then come back in line and carry on straight up. Beware, the rock becomes loose from this point! Well equipped. Belay on the summit with one bolt and one friend/nut.
L8 Go rightwards towards a notch then on to another notch just to the right of the second summit. The abseil is situated 5m to the right of this summit.

The ridge, about 4 pitches
Abseil down 25m to get back to the ridge. The ridge is not well-equipped ; three bolts and a couple of pitons. Use friends and slings over the rock spikes for extra protection.
Come to the notch before the last obstacle (5c+). This pitch is equipped but be wary of the friable rock at the beginning.

Descent

From the summit, abseil down 6-7m and head to the Evettes col then the Glière col. Alternatively, go down the northern gully towards the Glière comb (shorter way back to the Index col).

remarks

  • The route up the pillar is well equipped but not the ridge afterwards.
  • Beware of loose rock : the higher you go the more there is, Aig. Pourri translates as rotten needle after all!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Traditional "grande route" gear. Bring along slings, friends and nuts for the ridge.

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