Mont Charvatton : Tommy

Mont Charvatton : Tommy

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Escursionista - ESC11 - Valle di Champorcher - Parco Mont Avic

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD-  
6a+ > 5c

  A0+    I    P1 

heights

elevation_min: 1000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 500 m

difficulties_height: 1000 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach about 25mins

Leave the motorway at Verres if coming from Chamonix and follow the national road towards Bard. At a roundabout follow the signs for Hone and the Champorcher valley. Shortly after passing Pontboset there is an acute turn off on the right to Terrisse, (just befor a tunnel.)
From Terrisse (end of the road), follow the sign for "Tommy" in red on the stone wall (path immediately to the right after the parking). The path leaads to a sector with three routes, spaced about 100m. Tommy is the last one after the metal ladder. There is a sign on the rock.
The route faces SW, in the shade until 10h30.
14 pitches.

vue d'ensemble avec tracé
vue d'ensemble avec tracé

Route

L1 5c Bolts spaced at the start (30m, 3 bolts) but easy, then 4 bolts close together traversing to the right. 7 bolts in total.
L2 6a+ An awkward passage traversing to the right. 8 bolts
L3 5c Then a strenuous roof (5 bolts, A0) then a traverse (5c) well bolted. 15 bolts
L4 5b/c 11 bolts
L5 5c 14 bolts
L6 5c 13 bolts
L7 5c 13 bolts
L8 5a 8 bolts
L9 6c 6 bolts

Follow the path for about 20m through some vegetation to a large tree. The start of the next pitch is behind the tree at the foot of a spur, bolt at 4m.

L10 6a Splendid on a vague spur, with a move to the left at the end. 11 bolts
L11 5c First bolt fairly high up. A bit steeper on good holds. 8 bolts
L12 5c/6a 14 bolts. A reach at the start and awkward at the finish on two bulges. (Cable visible on the right.)
L13 5b 4 bolts and 2 without hangars (the 2 hangars having been stolen) Possible to place some nuts in the crack.
L14 3c 4 bolts and then you reach a cable

From here either you start to abseil back down the route or you continue upward to descend on foot. Go straight up for 40 m, pass a tree on the left, (to be safe) and continue upwards to the right for 40m to reach the wall at the end of the track, (brambles?)

Descent

• Back down the route in 10/11 abseils. You can reach the large tree in an abseil down vegetation from the top of P11. After the large tree, make the short abseil to the foot of P9. From here keep right of the tree below to reach an abseil point which was not on the ascent route, (under an overhang.) From here you can reach the top of P6. After 2 more abseils, (top of P4,) one abseil brings you to the top of P2. A full 60m abseil from here reaches the ground.

• From the top of the route, a pleasant path (with red markings) leads to the little village of Courtil (45 min). Count on another 45 min of walking along the road to reach Terrisse.

remarks

• A fun climb on great rock with lots of friction. Mainly slab climbing on featured rock. One strenuous section of A0 at a roof.
• Pitches 5 and 6 well bolted, more spaced for pitch 4.
• Long pitches (2×50 m recommended)
• After recent rain, pitch 6 will be wet. Possible to get to the start of pitch 10 from the top of pitch 5 by pitches 5 to 9 of "40 anni di Emozioni".

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

• 15 quickdraws.
• friends and nuts not necessary.
• 2×50 m rope
• Slings for the artificial section

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