Aiguille des Pèlerins : Grütter ridge

Aiguille des Pèlerins : Grütter ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge

quality: great

Rating

D+  
5c > 5c

    III    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2310 m / 3318 m

height_diff: +1008 m / -1008 m

height_diff_difficulties: 220 m

difficulties_height: 3100 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

A classic ridge but much less popular than its neighbours on the Peigne.

Topo : Aiguille des Pélerins, Access to the Grütter ridge
Topo : Aiguille des Pélerins, Access to the Grütter ridge

Approach

From the Plan de l'Aiguille, take the path to the SE in the direction of the Pélerins glacier. Go up the moraine on the true right bank, go around the SW ridge and climb up to the top of the glacier.
Leave the glacier and after several metres of easy climbing gain a schist ledge to the left, that leads to the foot of the fourth step.
The start of the ridge is 50m before the gap.

Route

Starts with 100m of chimney cracks, 4b. Then an easier section of 3b leads to two parallel cracks, 20m, 5b. The summit is reached by a pitch of 5a.

Descent

By the normal route on the S face:
From the summit follow the ridge ESE towards Pointe Migot turning a 10m pinnacle on the left and when about halfway between the latter and the Col des Pelerins, go down a rocky couloir on the S flank parallel to the main couloir on the left. Reach an area of broken ledges coming down from the fourth and final step of the SW ridge and slant leftwards down these for 100m to the main couloir where it widens. Descend it to the moraine on the true right bank of the Pelerins glacier and follow this down to the Plan d’Aiguille, 2.5 hrs.

remarks

It is possible to do the SW integral starting at the base of the ridge. The climbing on the first step is the hardest, but the rock is of dubious quality.
The rock on the fourth step is good.
A short route, suitable for days when the weather is doubtful.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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