Mont Oreb : Into the Wild

Mont Oreb : Into the Wild

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Download track as

Rating

D+  
6a+ > 5bA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1330 m / 2100 m

height_diff: +525 m / -20 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

difficulties_height: 1870 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Piola 2008, 2009, 2011

description

Also known as the "Piola route"

Approach 1h15

From the parking at Buet, take the Pierre Blanc hut path up the Berard valley until pt IGN 1702m (50min, small cairn).
Take a path on the right (N) which goes up the slope to the foot of the cliff, (cairns, 20min).
The start is 5m to the left of "l'Eté Indien". Stainless steel glue in rings. (l'Eté Indien has bolts with hangers.)

665935

Route

L1 5b 40 m 10pt Good holds, The belay is shared with "l'Eté Indien".
L2 5c 40 m 12pt "L'Eté Indien" takes the left hand line of bolts with hangers. Instead go straight up, then a technical slab.
L3 6a 30 m 8pt A vertical start, then slightly overhanging on good holds until it becomes much easier on a slab.
L4 6a+ 45 m 12pt A nice slab with one difficult move. Crux. (At the crux there is a bolt over to the left, easier to avoid this on the right.)
L5 6a 35 m 7pt Strenuous to start then easier.
L6 5c 40 m 9pt One move just above the stance, (5b if you go to the right,) then climb some vague ribs.
Transition (25 m). 2 bolts, then a grassy ledge to a belay with a metal ring.
L7 5c 30 m 11pt Well protected traverse to the right, keep low, then a slab followed by a steep corner with good holds.
L8 5c 25 m 8pt Corner crack then a slab.
L9 5b On the left, grass then an easy slab (scrappy). Belay on the right.
Transition. Get to the foot of the last pitch by grassy ramp (20m). Belay on a metal ring
L10 5b Slab then a rock step.

Descent

9 abseils, using belays with chains.
The first abseil fails to reach the foot of pitch 9 by 6-7 metres. Easy down climbing but dangerous if wet. Possible to abseil from the single ring at the top of the grass ramp.

remarks

S/s glue in bolts.
The last two pitches are not very interesting.
The route should not be confused with "la voie inconnue" 5c, which is on the buttress to the right.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

12 quickdraws, 2×50 m ropes.

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