Roi de Siam : Lifting du roi

Roi de Siam : Lifting du roi


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Associated waypoints

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  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium


5c > 5c

    II    P2 


elevation min/max : 3400 m / 3600 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 3400 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




The route is on the SE face of the Roi du Siam, which makes it climbable from spring to autumn.

Approach 1h15

From the Aiguille du Midi station, descend onto the Geant glacier and go towards the Pyramide du Tacul. Traverse under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and climb up into the Combe Maudite towards the Grand Capucin. The Roi de Siam is the summit squeezed between the Pointe Adolphe Rey and the Grand Capucin.
The route starts in the centre of the SE face. There is a bolt with a bit of cord and an abandoned friend.

It is also possible to approach from the Torino hut.


L1 20m 5c Start up a slab, belaying on bolts at a terrace straight above. 2 bolts.
At the end of the season, it is easier to start 10m to the right on a terrace and to traverse leftwards to join the route. (An overhang appears with the melting of the snow.)
L2 35m 5a Start slightly to the left then to the right in a large corner. 3 bolts. Belay on bolts.
L3 35m 5c Start straight up then slightly to the right in a crack. 3 bolts. Belay on bolts to the left on leaving the crack.
L4 30m 4c Straight up. Belay on bolts.
L5 35m 5a Straight up. Squeeze behind a rock (narrow, careful not to jam the rucksack), then go slightly to the left. Do not go to the belay point lower down, (in place for the descent to avoid jamming the rope on this pitch,) but continue 15m to find another belay with bolts.
L6 35m 5a Straight up. Belay on bolts
L7 35m 4c Straight up. Bolt belay on a nice slab. 4c, 35m.
L8 15m 4b Traverse to the right for 7-8 m then climb up trending leftwards. Belay on bolts.
L9 20m 5c, 5a Start straight up a 5m flake, then to the right before going directly to the summit. Peg belay plus a jammed block.


Abseil down the route, being careful not to snag the rope.


Nice route sustained at F5c. Enough bolts to make route finding easy.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


Friends N°1 to 3, nuts, slings and abseil cord.


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